Saturday, December 5, 2015
Wednesday, April 22, 2015
Flying Beagles by anonymous
When
I was just a boy, my family lived in Europe. My father was in the
U.S. Army, and we were stationed at a number of posts in Germany
during his career. Without exception, the locations were beautiful
and the experience, magical. But I was even luckier than most,
because every summer, we would hop in the car and drive to France to
see my mother’s ma and pa, my French grandparents. My French
family is situated in the quiet, beautiful green hillsides of
Charente, in the southwest, about three hours northeast of Bordeaux.
The county seat is Angouleme, and old Roman fortress-town built on
the tip of the largest hill as far as the eye can see. Normally, as
soon as we would arrive, all the relatives (Aunts, Uncles, Cousins,
friends, whoever was able to take Holiday leave) would form a convoy
and head west-northwest, towards the historic town of La Rochelle and
the picturesque, quaint, authentic (read: unspoiled by tourists)
island of Isle de Re. Our clan had the perfect location chosen
beforehand, and it would take no time at all to have the campers
unloaded, the tents put up, and one the kids, running to the beach
with half his ass still hanging out of his swim trunks (probably me).
We lived like that for three weeks or so, running to the market
every couple of days to buy food to prepare for dinner (and
bread…..bread is essential). I could turn this story into a book,
but let’s leave that for a more appropriate forum. The animals are
comin’, keep yer hat on.
After roughly three weeks of this torture, we were all chocolate
brown and actually thinner from all the running and goofing off on
the sand. We headed back to Angouleme for a few weeks before
departing for Germany. But the fun wasn’t over. Once we had
gathered ourselves, we piled back into the caravan and headed for the
medieval farm house out in the country, called La Chabre. This
rectangular, solid stone structure was owned by dear friends of the
family, and they were pleased to see it being visited every summer.
It must have been fifteenth or sixteenth century at birth, and the
floor consisted of these perfectly cut, giant, I mean GIANT square
rocks. The house was impenetrable and indestructible; it stands to
this day. Electricity had been wired, and a well provided running
water. The beds were a bit of a challenge. The mattresses were
filled with hay, which took some getting used to (“what happens if
an ember from the fireplace reaches my bed? Then you’ll go
mercifully quick.”); thank goodness we brought our own pillows. We
were never without something to do at La Chabre. My Aunt Veronique
and I would go exploring, and my brother and sister and Uncle Michel
would go for a ride in the junked out car that was kept t the
property. They both learned how to drive stick-shift in that
1950-something Peugeot. And there were no people as far as the eye
could see. The tiny village of Mainzac was just a few kilometers
away, so we had access to the small Tabac (corner store) for water,
sodas, milk and BREAD). My mother and grandmother always over-packed
the food so they wouldn’t have to listen to any complaining.
My
grandfather Marcel used the property more than anyone else because he
would occasionally go rabbit hunting. La Chabre was the ideal
location, with a nice warm place to eat and sleep, a large pen for
the Beagles, and nothing but farmland and rabbits waiting to be
slaughtered on the horizon. Yes, I said Beagles. They are brilliant
hunting dogs, and rabbits are at the top of the list. My grandfather
raised Beagles back in Angouleme, in a structure he built for just
such a purpose. When my grandfather would go rabbit-hunting, I
believe he would take seven, maybe eight dogs, although I have no
clue what the official number is for competitions. Although I never
did see my grandfather catch a rabbit, he was dedicated to those
dogs. They were fed, watered, sung to, and exercised. In order to
transport the dogs to La Chabre, my grandfather saved a great deal of
money by building his own dog-carriage-trailer-thing. He sued the
wheels from my brother’s baby stroller, and bits and pieces of
anything else he could find. He would load these barking, loud,
kinda dumb, dogs into this little trailer with two wheels,
double-check the hitch, and we were off. Now I knew better than to
question anything that my grandfather crafted by hand. Just like my
American grandfather, he was an artist with his hands. But even
Michelangelo had a flub up-once or twice, I imagine. One this
particular afternoon, we were leaving la Chabre for the summer, and
already mentally planning the trip back to Germany. We were in two
cars, with my Uncle Patrick driving the gray Renault and my
grandfather driving the white Renault, with everyone split evenly
between the two. We were driving a safe distance behind the white
Renault because it was pulling the homemade ex-pram full of barking,
shitting, peeing, unhappy Beagles. We hit a sharp turn, and the
unthinkable happened. As if it had never been screwed on to begin
with, one of the two wheels of the dog-trailer/ex-pram came flying
off into a ditch. My grandfather realized in a split second that
something had gone wrong and stopped, but the damage had been done
(relax- no injuries). The poor beagles….all eight of them, had
been flung out of the contraption totally against their will, and
onto one side of the road or the other. And there was my
grandfather, trying to catch the dogs, yelling at my grandmother that
somehow this was her fault, and my uncle and father trying to find a
way to put the contraption back together at least until we finished
the five-minutes left of our drive. To this day, I think about the
people who passed us by, who I could see in their cars, quickly
surmising what had occurred, and probably wetting themselves
laughing. The French love a good tragedy, as long as it’s not
happening to them. We finally rounded up all the dogs, who were only
psychologically damaged, thank goodness. We managed to fit all the
dogs into the two cars on top of the already-squeezed occupants, for
the five-minute drive home. Whenever we have a family gathering, we
have to retell that particular story. When I recall each Beagle,
being deposited out of the contraption against its will, I can’t
help but start to giggle to myself all over again.
Saturday, April 4, 2015
The Paschal homily of St John Chrysostomos (Archbishop of Constantinople)
For my friends of the West that will be celebrating Easter tomorrow and my friends of the East that will be celebrating Pascha next Sunday. I find it amazing and awesome that this sermon has been read every year around the entire world for over 1,600 years. The beauty and tradition of Orthodoxy!
If any be a devout lover of God,
let him partake with gladness from this fair and radiant feast.
If any be a faithful servant,
let him enter rejoicing into the joy of his Lord.
If any have wearied himself with fasting,
let him now enjoy his reward.
If any have laboured from the first hour,
let him receive today his rightful due.
If any have come after the third,
let him celebrate the feast with thankfulness.
If any have come after the sixth,
let him not be in doubt, for he will suffer no loss.
If any have delayed until the ninth,
let him not hesitate but draw near.
If any have arrived only at the eleventh,
let him not be afraid because he comes so late.
For the Master is generous and accepts the last even as the first.
He gives rest to him who comes at the eleventh hour
in the same was as him who has laboured from the first.
He accepts the deed, and commends the intention.
Enter then, all of you, into the joy of our Lord.
First and last, receive alike your reward.
Rich and poor, dance together.
You who fasted and you who have not fasted, rejoice together.
The table is fully laden: let all enjoy it.
The calf is fatted: let none go away hungry.
Let none lament his poverty;
for the universal Kingdom is revealed.
Let none bewail his transgressions;
for the light of forgiveness has risen from the tomb.
Let none fear death;
for death of the Saviour has set us free.
He has destroyed death by undergoing death.
He has despoiled hell by descending into hell.
He vexed it even as it tasted of His flesh.
Isaiah foretold this when he cried:
Hell was filled with bitterness when it met Thee face to face below;
filled with bitterness, for it was brought to nothing;
filled with bitterness, for it was mocked;
filled with bitterness, for it was overthrown;
filled with bitterness, for it was put in chains.
Hell received a body, and encountered God. It received earth, and confronted heaven.
O death, where is your sting?
O hell, where is your victory?
Christ is risen! And you, o death, are annihilated!
Christ is risen! And the evil ones are cast down!
Christ is risen! And the angels rejoice!
Christ is risen! And life is liberated!
Christ is risen! And the tomb is emptied of its dead;
for Christ having risen from the dead,
is become the first-fruits of those who have fallen asleep.
To Him be Glory and Power, now and forever, and from all ages to all ages.
Amen!
The Paschal homily of St John Chrysostomos (Archbishop of Constantinople)
This sermon is read at the Paschal Divine Liturgy
on the Sunday of the Resurrection. It was written circa 400 AD
If any be a devout lover of God,
let him partake with gladness from this fair and radiant feast.
If any be a faithful servant,
let him enter rejoicing into the joy of his Lord.
If any have wearied himself with fasting,
let him now enjoy his reward.
If any have laboured from the first hour,
let him receive today his rightful due.
If any have come after the third,
let him celebrate the feast with thankfulness.
If any have come after the sixth,
let him not be in doubt, for he will suffer no loss.
If any have delayed until the ninth,
let him not hesitate but draw near.
If any have arrived only at the eleventh,
let him not be afraid because he comes so late.
For the Master is generous and accepts the last even as the first.
He gives rest to him who comes at the eleventh hour
in the same was as him who has laboured from the first.
He accepts the deed, and commends the intention.
Enter then, all of you, into the joy of our Lord.
First and last, receive alike your reward.
Rich and poor, dance together.
You who fasted and you who have not fasted, rejoice together.
The table is fully laden: let all enjoy it.
The calf is fatted: let none go away hungry.
Let none lament his poverty;
for the universal Kingdom is revealed.
Let none bewail his transgressions;
for the light of forgiveness has risen from the tomb.
Let none fear death;
for death of the Saviour has set us free.
He has destroyed death by undergoing death.
He has despoiled hell by descending into hell.
He vexed it even as it tasted of His flesh.
Isaiah foretold this when he cried:
Hell was filled with bitterness when it met Thee face to face below;
filled with bitterness, for it was brought to nothing;
filled with bitterness, for it was mocked;
filled with bitterness, for it was overthrown;
filled with bitterness, for it was put in chains.
Hell received a body, and encountered God. It received earth, and confronted heaven.
O death, where is your sting?
O hell, where is your victory?
Christ is risen! And you, o death, are annihilated!
Christ is risen! And the evil ones are cast down!
Christ is risen! And the angels rejoice!
Christ is risen! And life is liberated!
Christ is risen! And the tomb is emptied of its dead;
for Christ having risen from the dead,
is become the first-fruits of those who have fallen asleep.
To Him be Glory and Power, now and forever, and from all ages to all ages.
Amen!
Friday, April 3, 2015
Does Blanco County,Texas Need Animal Control?
Does Blanco County, Texas need animal control? I don't really know, many people think we do, I am not so sure. In the past I have been happy that there was not animal control, because it would give people an easy way to "get rid" of cats. Considering that 70% of cats that enter a shelter are killed and that number goes up to 100% if the cat is a feral, I am not so sure that cats in Blanco County need animal control. What is needed is for people to contact The Blanco County Cat Coalition (BCCC) and get "their" cats fixed and vaccinated. Then let the kitties live out their lives without adding to the overpopulation of cats. Please Spay and Neuter!
A Short OverView of Animal Control by Michael Suarez
A short background
on animal control; there was animal control in England before there
was orphan care, matter of fact the orphanages were modeled after the
humane care of lost and abandoned animals in major cities in England.
The term 'dog catcher” is frowned upon by officers that care for
animals, and calling the few of us that care, murders or killers is a
contradiction because we are in essences the ones that care for the
animals when they are either abandoned or lost, regrettably we have
to put animals down because of age, overcrowding, disease or
aggression.
When a city reaches
a critical point, things like police, fire, and sewers comes to mind.
These are essential, part to prevent disease and damage to personal
and public property, but often over looked are the actual residents
of the town, human and animal alike. Dogs and cats have been a part
of humanity for about 100,000 and 2,000 years respectively. The
house/barn/alley cat was the last animal domesticated by mankind
around the time of the ancient Egyptians.
O course when you
take an animal into a place where you live we also bring with the
chance of zoonotic outbreaks. What are zoonotic outbreaks you ask?
That is where a virus or bacteria jumps from one species to another.
Some are simple and just annoying, like ringworm or scabies, others
are deadly like rabies. To help prevent this from spreading like wild
fire many years after the Black Plague people finally understood it
was the rats and mice covered with fleas that spread the virus, of
course this came to late for about 25 million people, that was ¼ of
the entire world's population at that time. With today's open
boarders and flights the whole world could face exposure in less than
72 hours; humanity would have little or no chance to survive a
virulent outbreak leaving less than 1% of 1% naturally immune to any
particular virus.
Now that I have you
attention you can understand the important role animal control plays
in everyday life. Horses without their coggins test can be 1200 pound
incubators for West Nile, and Chickengunya both horrible diseases in
humans often referred to as swamp fever in horses there is no cure
and the normal standard operating procure is to destroy the horse.
Rabies is one of the most horrible deaths I have ever seen (in film,
not in real life). For two of my jobs I was required to watch a film
when a human had been exposed to rabies and in the final stages were
filmed (in the 50's) so doctors could see the ravages of the virus,
it haunts me to this very day. Over 100,000 people a year die
worldwide from rabies mostly in Asia and Africa but make no mistake
rabies is alive and well in the United States with a rabid dog
confirmed at a dog park in Austin in February 2015. That is to close
for comfort in my book, that's why one of the cities first job is to
mandate all domestic animals (dogs, cats, ferrets) have a rabies
shot, followed by another in a years time that will be good for 3
years, then every three years following that till the animals demise.
A comprehensive spay
and neuter campaign is the next logical step that would include TNR
(trap neuter return) to reduce the feral cat population. Feral or
wild cats pose a possible vector to infect other normally healthy
animals and humans. Cats have the ability to pass a number of
illnesses to humans, cat scratch fever, toxoplasmosis, rabies and a
plethora of other not so deadly but uncomfortable things that we
rather not go into right now.
Of course
enforcement is the next step, animals should be required to have a
city tag to return them or contact the owners if their animal is
caught outside of their yard or has been injured, or lost. In my many
years of animal control the best form of identification is a
microchip, and it cannot be removed or lost like a collar. Many
people have the idea that a cat will hang itself with a collar on,
but they make break away collars for cats and if not, micro chipping
is the way to go. A small chip is embedded under the skin and it
sends a ID number and a phone number to the proper receiver, it is
not powered so it will last the lifetime of the animal. Even if an
animal is killed by a car strike, a micro chip can bring closure to
the pet's owner.
The state of Texas
requires its animal control officers to go through a course to become
certified, in a small town they normally send a member of the city
road crew to become certified in animal control and euthanasia.
Another option is to send a marshal or police officer. Of course this
is NOT something that can be put off; if you have an animal control
department it must be run correctly and by the laws set forth by the
State of Texas.
The actual running
of a shelter also falls under many hats, it must be humanely run and
follow all state set rules. Animals in the state of Texas are
considered property, so in essence if you pick up a dog and do not
allow the public to have a chance to recover said property you are
doing an unlawful search and seizer, violating not only local and
state laws but the very constitution of the United States. Kennel
cards must have a picture and a written description of the animal,
location it was caught, and gender is always helpful as well as a
guess on breed. Also a set time limit must be set for all animals,
the norm is 3 days without a collar, and 10 days with. Of course you
have to have either a website of some means to show the public you
have animals in your care, a weatherproof poster board with picture
of the animals help to avoid the problem of having someone at the
pound 24/7 But it must be updated and monitored daily with a contact
number for people to recover their animals. A scanner is required to
scan ALL animals to see if they are chipped, putting down an animal
before contacting its owner is destruction of private property and is
punishable by law.
The additional costs
of animal control are covered by licensing, fines, and impound fees.
The additional officer can also double as a code compliance office
adding to the cities beautification by other fines. Additionally
animal control trucks can either be purchased used from Austin or
grants and loans are available if you plan to run a no kill shelter.
This is just a short
for a reminder of things to come for me, the actual codes and
everything that are necessary for animal control would take me days
to tell you everything we have garnered over the years. Please fell
free to contact me at my e-mail address with any thing you may have
forgotten or may have discovered during your quest to become a modern
animal control with a heart.
Michael Suarez
Executive Director of Hope for Dogs
7703 Tennessee
Walker
Van Ormy, Texas
78073
email:
hopefordogsanimalrescue@gmail.com
Sunday, March 29, 2015
What to Do ( and NOT Do) IF You Find a Newborn Kitten
I have met Valerie and have attended her work shops. I hope this article will give you some valuable information.
What to Do (and NOT Do) If You Find a Newborn Kitten
by Valerie Sicignano, NYC Feral Cat Initiative
During high kitten season in the spring and summer, it’s not unusual to discover a nest of unattended kittens or a single kitten seemingly abandoned by the mother. You want to help, right? Before jumping to the rescue, consider these recommendations.
First: Wait & Watch
You might have come across the kittens while their mother is off searching for food, or is in the process of moving them to a different location. Try to determine if the mother is coming back for them, or if they are truly orphaned.
To do this, stand far away from the kittens — 35 feet or more. If you stand too close, the mom will not approach her kittens. You might need to go away completely before the mother cat will return to attend to the kittens. It might be several hours before the mother cat returns — until she no longer senses the presence of humans hovering near her litter.
If you need to leave before the mother cat comes back, carefully evaluate whether the kittens are in immediate danger: Is it raining or snowing? Are dogs or wild animals that might harm the kittens running loose in the neighborhood? Does the neighborhood have kids or adults who are likely to harm the kittens? Are the kittens located in an area with heavy foot or car traffic?
To help with your decision, it is important to know that it might take several hours for the mother cat to return, and healthy kittens can survive this period without food as long as they are warm. Neonatal kittens are much more at risk of hypothermia than they are of starvation. During spring and summer months, waiting a longer time to see if mom will come back is much safer than during frigid winter months.
The mother cat offers her kittens’ best chance for survival, so wait and watch as long as you can. The best food for the kittens is their mother’s milk. Remove the kittens only if they are in immediate, grave danger.
If the mother cat returns…
If mom returns and the area is relatively safe, leave the kittens alone with mom until they are weaned. You can offer a shelter and regular food to mom, but keep the food and shelter at a distance from each other. Mom will find the food but will not accept your shelter if the food is nearby, because she will not want to attract other cats to food located near her nest.
Six weeks is the optimal age to take the kittens from the mother for socialization and adoption placement, and any time after eight weeks for Trap-Neuter-Return (spay/neuter, vaccination, eartip, and return to their colony). Female cats can become pregnant with a new litter even while they are still nursing, so don’t forget to get the mother cat spayed or you will have more kittens soon! Learn how to socialize kittens and how to successfully trap a mom and her kittens.
If the mother cat does not return…
If you discover that mom has been hit by a car, or if for any reason it appears that she is not coming back, then you should remove the kittens. This is crucial to the kittens’ survival. But you must be prepared to see this project through to weaning if you decide to intervene!
If you take the kittens in, it is unlikely that you will find an organization with available staff or volunteers to take on bottle-feeding on short notice. Some organizations do have experienced bottle-feeders, but prior logistical planning is necessary. Animal shelters and veterinarians generally do not take in newborn kittens, since they do not have the staff to feed and stimulate them for elimination around-the-clock.
You can contact the NYC Feral Cat Initiative at kittens@NYCFeralCat.org or (212) 330-0033 x5 and we will attempt to find someone to bottle-feed the kittens, but this might take days or weeks, and we might not be successful in locating a feeder. If we do find someone to bottle-feed, you might still be responsible for taking the kittens back when they no longer require bottle-feeding. You also might be responsible for paying for veterinary visits, which might include emergency medical care, and will definitely include spay or neuter surgery, disease testing, and vaccinations. And finally, you might be responsible for adopting the kittens into permanent homes. The NYC Feral Cat Initiative can help you locate low-cost veterinary care, and might be able to help you find new homes for the kittens, but completing these tasks will be your responsibility.
Kitten Care & Bottle-Feeding
First Steps
Neonatal kittens (under four weeks of age) cannot eat solid food (not canned, not dry) and cannot urinate or defecate on their own, so you must bottle-feed them around-the-clock and stimulate their genitals after every feeding so they can eliminate. For example, if you have kittens less than one week old, they will need to be fed and stimulated every three hours. That means you will be caring for them eight times a day — for example, at midnight, 3:00 a.m, 6:00 a.m, etc. If the kittens are unusually small or sickly, they might need to be fed every two hours.
Skipping feedings or overfeeding can cause diarrhea, which results in dehydration, a condition that can be fatal for small kittens (not to mention a hassle for you to clean up after). Diarrhea requires a visit to the veterinarian.
As the kittens age, the number of feedings they need per day goes down. You can start weaning at four weeks of age.
Milk Replacement Formulas
Powdered kitten milk replacement formula is better for kittens than the canned liquid formula. We recommend that you use only powdered kitten milk replacement formula from the start — or as soon as possible — to prevent diarrhea. Two major brands of formula are available: PetAg KMR® Powder and Farnam Pet Products Just Born® Highly Digestible Milk Replacer for Kittens. Both brands are available in both canned and powdered formulas. We highly recommend the powdered type to prevent diarrhea. It can be purchased at pet food stores, veterinarians’ offices, or online. Revival Animal Health offers the lowest prices we know of.
Make sure that the powdered formula you are using is fresh by opening the pop-top and smelling it. It should smell slightly sweet, like powdered milk. If it has a sharp smell like bad cooking oil, cheese, or chemicals, it is rancid, and dangerous to give to the kittens. Do not use any type of formula past the expiration date.
Once opened, kitten milk replacement formula (canned or powdered) must be refrigerated promptly and stored in the refrigerator. You cannot keep opened kitten milk replacement formula out of the refrigerator for very long before it spoils. Think of it as fresh milk.
Tip: Using unflavored Pedialyte electrolyte solution instead of water when mixing the powdered formula for the first 24 hours of feeding helps prevents diarrhea and eases the transition from mom’s milk to commercial kitten milk replacement formula.
Bottle-Feeding Guidance for Beginners
About the Author
Valerie Sicignano is Community Relations Director for the New York City Feral Cat Initiative and has been working with feral cats in New York City since 1990. She holds a Certificate in Humane Education from the ASPCA, and her work with animals has been recognized by the Manhattan Pet Gazette’s “Animal Guardian Award” and In Defense of Animals’ “Companion Animal Guardian Award.”
During high kitten season in the spring and summer, it’s not unusual to discover a nest of unattended kittens or a single kitten seemingly abandoned by the mother. You want to help, right? Before jumping to the rescue, consider these recommendations.
First: Wait & Watch
You might have come across the kittens while their mother is off searching for food, or is in the process of moving them to a different location. Try to determine if the mother is coming back for them, or if they are truly orphaned.
To do this, stand far away from the kittens — 35 feet or more. If you stand too close, the mom will not approach her kittens. You might need to go away completely before the mother cat will return to attend to the kittens. It might be several hours before the mother cat returns — until she no longer senses the presence of humans hovering near her litter.
If you need to leave before the mother cat comes back, carefully evaluate whether the kittens are in immediate danger: Is it raining or snowing? Are dogs or wild animals that might harm the kittens running loose in the neighborhood? Does the neighborhood have kids or adults who are likely to harm the kittens? Are the kittens located in an area with heavy foot or car traffic?
To help with your decision, it is important to know that it might take several hours for the mother cat to return, and healthy kittens can survive this period without food as long as they are warm. Neonatal kittens are much more at risk of hypothermia than they are of starvation. During spring and summer months, waiting a longer time to see if mom will come back is much safer than during frigid winter months.
The mother cat offers her kittens’ best chance for survival, so wait and watch as long as you can. The best food for the kittens is their mother’s milk. Remove the kittens only if they are in immediate, grave danger.
If the mother cat returns…
If mom returns and the area is relatively safe, leave the kittens alone with mom until they are weaned. You can offer a shelter and regular food to mom, but keep the food and shelter at a distance from each other. Mom will find the food but will not accept your shelter if the food is nearby, because she will not want to attract other cats to food located near her nest.
Six weeks is the optimal age to take the kittens from the mother for socialization and adoption placement, and any time after eight weeks for Trap-Neuter-Return (spay/neuter, vaccination, eartip, and return to their colony). Female cats can become pregnant with a new litter even while they are still nursing, so don’t forget to get the mother cat spayed or you will have more kittens soon! Learn how to socialize kittens and how to successfully trap a mom and her kittens.
If the mother cat does not return…
If you discover that mom has been hit by a car, or if for any reason it appears that she is not coming back, then you should remove the kittens. This is crucial to the kittens’ survival. But you must be prepared to see this project through to weaning if you decide to intervene!
If you take the kittens in, it is unlikely that you will find an organization with available staff or volunteers to take on bottle-feeding on short notice. Some organizations do have experienced bottle-feeders, but prior logistical planning is necessary. Animal shelters and veterinarians generally do not take in newborn kittens, since they do not have the staff to feed and stimulate them for elimination around-the-clock.
You can contact the NYC Feral Cat Initiative at kittens@NYCFeralCat.org or (212) 330-0033 x5 and we will attempt to find someone to bottle-feed the kittens, but this might take days or weeks, and we might not be successful in locating a feeder. If we do find someone to bottle-feed, you might still be responsible for taking the kittens back when they no longer require bottle-feeding. You also might be responsible for paying for veterinary visits, which might include emergency medical care, and will definitely include spay or neuter surgery, disease testing, and vaccinations. And finally, you might be responsible for adopting the kittens into permanent homes. The NYC Feral Cat Initiative can help you locate low-cost veterinary care, and might be able to help you find new homes for the kittens, but completing these tasks will be your responsibility.
Kitten Care & Bottle-Feeding
First Steps
- Prepare for bottle-feeding and proper care before you take the kittens off the street.
- If you feel you must take the kittens in, wrap the carrier or container you will transport them in in a towel for warmth, but make sure you leave air holes uncovered so the kittens won’t suffocate.
- Check to see if the kittens are warm. This is more important than feeding. Never feed a cold kitten! If the kittens are cold, you will need to warm them up slowly. You can tell a kitten is cold if the pads of his feet and/or ears feel cool or cold. Put your finger in the kitten’s mouth. If it feels cold, then the kitten’s temperature is too low. This is life-threatening and must be dealt with immediately. Warm up the kitten slowly over 1–2 hours by wrapping him in a polar fleece towel, holding him close to your body, and continually rubbing him with your warm hands.
- Determine the age of the kittens by comparing them to the photos and descriptions on the Kitten Progression: Week-by-Week page on the Alley Cat Allies website, or the Boutique Kittens website (Note: we do not advocate buying kittens; these kitten development photos just happen to be particularly descriptive.).
Neonatal kittens (under four weeks of age) cannot eat solid food (not canned, not dry) and cannot urinate or defecate on their own, so you must bottle-feed them around-the-clock and stimulate their genitals after every feeding so they can eliminate. For example, if you have kittens less than one week old, they will need to be fed and stimulated every three hours. That means you will be caring for them eight times a day — for example, at midnight, 3:00 a.m, 6:00 a.m, etc. If the kittens are unusually small or sickly, they might need to be fed every two hours.
Skipping feedings or overfeeding can cause diarrhea, which results in dehydration, a condition that can be fatal for small kittens (not to mention a hassle for you to clean up after). Diarrhea requires a visit to the veterinarian.
As the kittens age, the number of feedings they need per day goes down. You can start weaning at four weeks of age.
Milk Replacement Formulas
Powdered kitten milk replacement formula is better for kittens than the canned liquid formula. We recommend that you use only powdered kitten milk replacement formula from the start — or as soon as possible — to prevent diarrhea. Two major brands of formula are available: PetAg KMR® Powder and Farnam Pet Products Just Born® Highly Digestible Milk Replacer for Kittens. Both brands are available in both canned and powdered formulas. We highly recommend the powdered type to prevent diarrhea. It can be purchased at pet food stores, veterinarians’ offices, or online. Revival Animal Health offers the lowest prices we know of.
Make sure that the powdered formula you are using is fresh by opening the pop-top and smelling it. It should smell slightly sweet, like powdered milk. If it has a sharp smell like bad cooking oil, cheese, or chemicals, it is rancid, and dangerous to give to the kittens. Do not use any type of formula past the expiration date.
Once opened, kitten milk replacement formula (canned or powdered) must be refrigerated promptly and stored in the refrigerator. You cannot keep opened kitten milk replacement formula out of the refrigerator for very long before it spoils. Think of it as fresh milk.
Tip: Using unflavored Pedialyte electrolyte solution instead of water when mixing the powdered formula for the first 24 hours of feeding helps prevents diarrhea and eases the transition from mom’s milk to commercial kitten milk replacement formula.
Bottle-Feeding Guidance for Beginners
- Visit the the NYC Feral Cat Initiative website for detailed information on bottle-feeding orphaned newborn kittens,
- E-mail us at kittens@NYCFeralCat.org and describe what instructions/information you need, or
- Call us at (212) 330-0033 x5 and leave a voicemail with your name, address, and a description of what instructions/information you need.
About the Author
Valerie Sicignano is Community Relations Director for the New York City Feral Cat Initiative and has been working with feral cats in New York City since 1990. She holds a Certificate in Humane Education from the ASPCA, and her work with animals has been recognized by the Manhattan Pet Gazette’s “Animal Guardian Award” and In Defense of Animals’ “Companion Animal Guardian Award.”
Thursday, March 26, 2015
What I Did On My Day Off
Well
today was a rather pleasant day. Some of you folks out there may
wonder what this crazy cat lady does on her days off. First of all,
yes, I do have a day job. I work for a CPA, it is part time, then I
trap cats part time and make handwoven jewelry to sell at a
Renaissance Festival in upstate NY. Today I had the day off. After a
yummy breakfast of eggs, onions, kale and feta cheese, I spent the
morning typing out the blog post about dog fighting. I found myself
feeling angry and sick when I imagined the cruelty visited upon those
innocent animals. But I am happy to share the info in hopes that it
will help stop those criminals. Then I vacuumed the couch, any one
with more than one cat know what little fuzz generators those kitties
are and will understand why vacuuming the coach is an almost daily
chore. I baked some bread and cleaned up the kitchen. One loaf turned
out well enough to take to church, but the other one didn’t turn
out so well, so guess what I had for supper. Since I was being so
domestic I decided to actually cook something for lunch. I made
salmon patties, they turned out quite tasty. By then it had warmed up
out side so BG and I did a little weeding in the garden. Then I went
to town to get gas for the lawn mower and mowed most of the front
yard. After a short nap I decided to work on a painting that has been
in progress for quite some time. What does a crazy cat lady paint?
You guessed it, Cats! In this case it is a painting of five kittens
sleeping on a blanket. I will try and post a picture. Then as evening
fell BG and I went off to the back acre and dug up a wheelbarrow full
of cactus. I have about a third of an acre of cactus left to dig up.
I have been working on it a little bit at a time. At dusk, all eight
of my kitty family gathered around the back porch for brushing and
play time. Rosie and Emerald both like the tennis balls. Rascal and
Mia love to chase a peacock feather. All of them like to roll around
in the fresh catnip I scatter about. Now it is almost time for a
shower and bed. Thank you for reading my blog, Good Night! Zzzzz
PS
To my church family; I hope I didn't scandalize you, if so please
forgive me.
What I Recently Learned About Dog Fighting
Last Saturday I had
the pleasure to attend an informative meeting put on by animal
control officer Michael Suarez of Von Ormy, Texas. One of the many
issues he discussed was how to recognize a dog fighting ring. Some of
that information is what I would like to share with you today.
“Dog fighting,
which is appropriately called a blood-sport, is the actual pitting of
two dogs against each other in a pit or ring to fight for the
entertainment of the spectators, some mere children. The dogs,
usually pit bulls, literally bite and rip the flesh off one another
while the onlookers cheer, scream and place bets on which dog will
win the match. Much of the time there is alcohol involved or illicit
drug use as well. After the fight, both dogs are critically wounded,
often with massive bleeding, ruptured lungs, broken bones and other
life threatening injuries. Generally, the loser of a match dies or is
killed, unless he has any salvage value to his owner. When dogs are
killed after a match, it is not done by a humane euthanasia methods,
rather the animals are shot, beaten, or tortured, the local flavor is
hanging the animal. The animals that survive generally never see a
veterinarian; regardless of the gravity of injuries or the amount of
suffering that the animals will have to endure due to the chance a
veterinarian will report the injuries to the authorities.
While it takes an
investigator to properly investigate a dog fighting operation, there
are several warning signs that dog fighting may be occurring. Of
course, only local law enforcement officials, animal control
officers, and prosecuting attorneys may investigate criminal actions
against any suspected dog fighters. However, a good Samaritan who
sees evidence of dog fighting enterprises may contact local law
enforcement agents who may then launch an investigation. Simply
because the following signs are present does not indicate a person is
involved in a dog fighting operation. Rather, these signs are based
are based on data collected from years of dog fighting investigations
and prosecutions. So even if you think IT is happening, it mat not
be, so please do not try and take the law into your own hands.
Law enforcement
agents may encounter suspicious activity as a result o f a citizen
complaint, an unrelated investigation, a deliberate investigation or
completely by chance. Field agents must be trained. to recognize the
indicators of potential dog fighting activity. It is extremely common
for agents to come across any or all of the following, often in plain
view when there is presence of dog fighting: From an animal welfare
standpoint, dog fighting is one of the most serious forms of animal
abuse, not only for the heinous acts of violence that the dogs endure
during and after the fights, but because they literally suffer their
entire lives. Dogs that are born, bought or stolen for fighting are
often neglected and abused from the start. Most spend their entire
lives alone on chains or in cages and only know the attention of a
human when they are being trained to fight and they only know the
company of other animals in the context of being trained to kill
them. Most dogs spend their entire lives without adequate food,
water, or shelter. They are not perceived as sentient beings capable
of suffering, rather they are commodities that exist for the sole
purpose of making the owner money and prestige. The prevailing
mindset among dog fighters is that the more the dog suffers, the
tougher he will become, and the better fighter he will be. The
fighting dogs are not the only victims of heinous cruelty. Many of
the training methods involve torturing and killing of other innocent
animals. Often pets are stolen or otherwise obtained to be used as
live bait in training exercises to improve the dogs' endurance,
strength, or fighting ability. If the bait animals are still alive
after the training sessions, they are usually given to the dogs as a
reward, and the dogs finish killing them.
(1) Dogs:
Certainly not all pit bulls are fought, but officers should be
watchful of signs that pit bulls on the premises are being trained or
bred for fighting or have been fought. Multiple dogs are generally
housed in one location. More sophisticated operations may look more
like a kennel; in fact many that breed and fight dogs do so under the
auspices of a kennel to deflect suspicion. Less sophisticated dog
fighters, especially the urban street fighters generally have several
dogs chained in back-yards, often behind privacy fences, or garages.
Dogs that have been fought have fresh wounds or scars, in various
stages of healing, on the head, chest and legs.
(2) People: A
dog fighting data base should be maintained to track suspicious and
known dog fighters. They will often lead you to other dog fighters
and to multiple locations where dogs are kept and fought. Dog
fighters move their dogs frequently, so it is important for law
enforcement to pay close attention to whether a suspect has multiple
residences, including out-of-state. Detailed records should be kept
of the individuals that come and go from suspicious locations.
Surveillance is especially important on nights and weekends, when
large number of dog fighters may come together.
(3) Signs of
Training or Fights: The
presence of a pit is a sure sign of fighting, but agents should pay
close attention to blood spattered on any surface. Many new fighting
rings are portable and fold into an unsuspecting pile of boards in
seconds. Dogs may be fought or trained in garages, barns, and vacant
buildings, so spatters of blood on any interior walls or floors
should be closely documented. Dogs are often trained outside, so
agents should watch for blood spattered out side, especially near
training equipment. When live animals are used as bait, there are
generally remains of the animals on site. You should look for patches
of fur, bones, or decomposed bodies.
Officers and citizens should be able to identify devices and
implements such as: treadmills, catmills (jennys), springpoles
(jumppoles), flirtpoles, chains/weights, and any implements used to
hang or harness bait animals. Pry bars, bite sticks, or breaking
sticks are used too pry the dog's jaws open when he has gripped onto
another animal. Investigators should be trained to recognize these,
as they would be quickly overlooked by the untrained eye. Often we
carry these item in out truck as well because of catching feral
animals.
(4) Signs of
Transport: Large numbers of
portable dog-kennels on site may indicate that the dogs are
frequently transported to and from matches and between multiple
locations. Adult pit bulls frequently appearing and disappearing from
a certain location with no explanation may be involved in fighting.
(5) Vitamins,
Drugs, Food supplements and Veterinary Implements: Most dog
fighters do not take their animals to a veterinarian for treatment
for fear of exposure; as a result, it is extremely common to
encounter veterinary supplies and manuals during an investigation.
Again, I have several drop shipments of common drugs to my home
weekly, so it is not always as it seems.
(6) Physical
Evidence of Bookmaking/Contest: Agents should watch for trophies
recognizing match winners, or conferring the titles “Champion” or
“Grand Champion.” Other physical evidence to look for include:
ledger slips, match results, stat of an individual animal's
performance in matches, photos of dogs or matches.
(7) Publications:
Agents should be able to recognize pro-dog-fighting publications,
such as,
-
The Sporting Dog Journal
-
Your Friend and Mine
-
American Game Dog Times
-
The Scratch Line
-
Face Your Dogs
-
The Pit Bull Chronicle
-
The Pit Bull Reporter
-
The American Warrior
The collective
American conscience has long been repulsed by the undeniable
brutality within the culture of dog fighting, but the law enforcement
community has been regrettably lax in appreciating the full scope and
gravity of the problem. Historically, the crime of dog fighting was
considered an isolated animal welfare issue, and as such was ignored,
denied, or disregarded by law enforcement. Within the last decade,
however a growing body of legal and empirical evidence has emerged
exposing the clandestine culture of dog fighting and its nexus with
other crimes and community violence. Dog fighters are violent
criminals that engage in a host of peripheral criminal activities.
Many are heavily involved in organized crime, racketeering, drug
distribution, or gangs, and they arrange and attend the fights as a
forum for gambling and drug trafficking. Many communities have been
morally, socially and culturally scarred by the menacing pestilence
of dog fighting for generations. From a very early age, children in
those communities are routinely exposed to the unfathomable violence
that is inherent within the blood sport. Even seasoned law
enforcement agents are consistently appalled by the atrocities that
they encounter before, during, and after dog fights, yet the children
that grow up exposed to it are conditioned to believe that the
violence is normal. Those children are systematically desensitized to
the suffering, and ultimately become criminalized.
I have culled
several items from my school books and other publication for this
information, it is by no means complete or a “holy grail” of dog
fighting signs. Many items were left out for reasons my son and I
thought were important for public safety. This is NOT a game, this is
not a joke, thousands of dollars are exchanged at cock and dog fight,
it may also have illegal drugs or weapons present. Observe, document,
report, and let law enforcement do their job. No one wants to get
that “call” in the middle of the night, be safe out there.”
by Michael Suarez
email: hopefordogsanimalrescue@gmail.com
Michael is an animal
control officer in Von Ormy, Texas and also the Executive Director of
“Hope for Dogs.”
Here in the small
town of Blanco at the local grocery store there is a community
bulletin board. On it at certain times of the years there always
seems be be a lot of lost pets posted. I have often wondered about
that. Are these animals being stolen to be be used a bait animals, or
are they unaltered animals that have answered natures call? I
probably don't really want to know the answer to that question.
Please spay, neuter, vaccinate and microchip your pets! And if you
are involved in any way, in dog fighting I hope you rot in hell!
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